When this book was announced as the current selection for Cook the Books I wasn't really sure what to expect. I hadn't heard of either the book or the author before, but being part of a book club often brings new authors so I searched out the book. Unsurprisingly my library system did not have a copy.
This book has quite an unusual structure. The story is fundamentally the story of Eva Thorvald, an enigmatic figure destined for greatness in the food world. However, Eva isn't really at the centre of the book. The book features a series of vignettes told by people who have the slightest connection to Eva. In one chapter she is the narrator's boyfriend's sister. In another, she is the judge at a bake off, in another a culinary rival. Eva herself only has one chapter where she is the one telling us of her life. The rest of her story is learnt through the interactions with other people.
Eva has a rough start to life. Her chef father wants to introduce her to fancy food at a very young age. Her mother has deserted the family to follow her wine related dreams. Eva is only young when her father dies, leaving her to be raised by her aunt and uncle. They love her, but they don't understand her. As a youngster she wants to grow the hottest chilli's she possibly can. Over the years, we see Eva's passion for food morph into an unrivalled food career, all of which she manages on her own terms. The other thing about Eva is that she is a collector of people, but as reader's we don't really see this all come together until the very end of the book!
There was lots to like about this book. It did make me laugh at times. For example, early on there is a section where Eva and her cousin are putting her forward in hot chilli eating competitions to make money, and there is a church baking competition that made me smile. There were moments when I found myself wishing I could be part of something similar to the Saturday Night Dinner Party where the guests all had to bring a dish that met the theme. Or the character who talks about the fact that they go to McDonalds for a birthday every year. One year it was McDonalds in Paris, another year it was London. That's my kind of trip to Maccas!
I am not sure, however, that the book worked for me as well it might have. It was a good read, rather than a great read. For all that there was humour and an unusual structure, underpinning it there was grief and damaged people, drugs and other struggles. I did like how it all came together though. I have also had a look at the other books that this author has written, and they do all sound like books I might like to read at some point. They certainly all have definite foodie titles and subjects.
This was a great selection for Cook the Books as the food was front and centre! I thought about counting all the different types of food that was mentioned but there was so many! I would have run out of fingers and toes before the end of the first chapter! I was not familiar with all of the food. For example, there were chapters about Lutefisk (a white fish cured in lye) which I have never heard of, and to be honest, I am not sure I would want to try. Another chapter featured Sweet Pepper Jelly, which again was a new taste to me.
So how do you decide what recipe to make when there are so many food mentions in a book. It almost happens by osmosis. I had written down a few notes, one of which was French Onion Soup, which was the subject of one of the chapters. And then I realised that I had this recipe already saved in my blog to share at some point, and that the recipe would definitely count for Paris in July and voila! The decision was made. It's not the first French Onion Soup inspired post I have shared for Paris in July. Back in 2022 I shared this recipe for French Onion casserole which was so delicious. I am trying to convince my husband that we need to have this again while it is still cold here. And every time I do have anything French Onion flavoured, I can't help but think of the soup that we had when we did our foodie walking tour of Le Marais.
This recipe comes from from Tender by Lucy Tweed, which was a recent selection for Lambs Ear Cookbook Club. We have made several recipes from this book, at least one other of which had French influences. This was a cook book that I originally borrowed from the library but I did end up buying it!
Obviously, this is not an authentic French dish, but we really enjoyed the flavours and will definitely make it again! The cheesy thyme crumb was a highlight! So good! We didn't have gruyere so I used a combination of mozzarella and parmesan
French Onion Rigatoni (Lucy Tweed)
Serves 4 – Cook Time: 45 Mins
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large red onions, quartered
8 baby (pearl) onions, halved
200 ml (7 fl oz) dry white wine
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce (vegetarian if you want the dish to be fully vegetarian)
2 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour
3 thyme sprigs
2 garlic cloves
400 ml (14 fl oz) beef stock (or vegetable)
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) rigatoni
11/2 teaspoons sea salt flakes
freshly ground black pepper
100 ml thickened (heavy) cream
90 g (2/3 cup) grated smoked gruyère
50 g (1/2 cup) grated parmesan
Cheesy thyme crumb
1/4 sourdough loaf, crusts removed, torn into small pieces
6 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
salt
freshly ground black pepper
35 g (1/4 cup) grated smoked gruyère
Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) fan-forced.
For the cheesy thyme crumb, combine the torn sourdough, thyme, olive oil and a little salt and pepper. Spread on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for 15 minutes, without turning, until golden. Scatter with the grated smoked gruyère and return to the oven for 3–5 minutes. Allow to cool and crisp fully before crumbling into shards. (You can make this a few hours ahead of time or cook this at the same time as the onions, on a lower shelf.)
Heat the olive oil in a large casserole over medium–high heat. Add the onion quarters, cut-sides down first, turning to colour all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Deglaze the pan with the white wine, scraping up any bits stuck to the base. Whisk in the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, butter and flour until smooth and slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
Return the onion to the pan along with the thyme and garlic. Pour in the beef stock and sherry vinegar and stir well to combine. Transfer to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Switch to the grill (broiler) setting and grill (broil) for 10 minutes until the onion becomes jammy and browned on top.
Meanwhile, cook the rigatoni according to the packet instructions. Reserve a small cup of the pasta water, then drain.
Remove the pan from the oven and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the pasta and stir it through, using just enough of the reserved pasta water to loosen the sauce.
Add the cream either now or at the table, stirring it through for desired richness. Scatter with the gruyère and parmesan.
Top the pasta with the cheesy thyme crumb just before serving.
Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.
Saturday - Out for dinner
Monday - French Onion Rigatoni
Tuesday - Zucchini, bacon and tomato risotto
Wednesday - Out for dinner
Thursday - Out for dinner
Friday - Mexican Chicken and Rice
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